A 35-minute ferry ride from Auckland, New Zealand, is the 25-kilometre wide island of Waiheke. First populated in 950 AD by Maori explorers, it was not until the 1970s that the island became the lifestyle choice of Aucklanders who wanted a break from city life. The very nature of those city immigrants meant that Waiheke developed a bohemian and hippy-like lifestyle, characterised today by the numerous artists, sculptors, writers and potters who live on the island.
Also in the 1970s the first winery sprang up – Goldwater Estate opened for business in 1978. It is now into its second generation of wine growing but it is no longer alone – there are now more than 30 vineyards scattered across the whole island, producing some of the best wine New Zealand has to offer.
Many of the vineyards have larger operations in other, world-renowned wine areas of New Zealand, such as Marlborough or Hawkes Bay, but many have brought their ideas from Europe, or have developed iconic wines that reflect the island and its temperate climate.
A Scientific Approach
Lance Blumhardt came to Waiheke from Nottingham, England, more than twenty years ago. He set about finding a place in New Zealand where his family could settle. After many false dawns, he settled on Waiheke and the Jurassic Ridge vineyard opened in 2002. Its wines are now regular winners of medals in competitions across the region, the North Island and the whole of New Zealand.
Blumhardt was a neurology professor at Nottingham University, and it is easy to spot his clinical, scientific mind at work in the wine production process. Minute detail goes into the careful blending of grapes, the thoughtful production of unusual wine, such as the award-winning Cabernet Franc, and the artwork on the bottles. To spend twenty minutes in Blumhardt’s company is to have your eyes opened to the passion that is poured into every bottle produced on these small but perfectly-formed vineyards.
Jurassic Ridge vineyard is so called because it sits on a layer of rock. The soil is thin in places, with hard ground close to the surface, but much of the original rock has been converted to clay minerals. As Blumhardt produces all of his wine under strict organic conditions and with as few chemical processes as possible, then that mineral influence can be tasted in the wines.
A different operation is the winery at Mudbrick. Here the visitor is confronted with manicured beds of lavender, herbs such as rosemary and thyme and many varieties of lettuces. These are all used by Swedish chef, Andreas Lindberg, to produce a stunning array of sea food, meat or cheese platters. A sunny verandah offers visitors the chance to take in the views while feasting on a platter and washing it down with wines such as the Mudbrick Viognier, produced on the island and tasting of honey and apricots.
The black shiny rock that is found in patches across the island is the namesake of Obsidian vineyard. This is a small, family-run operation that produces a range of Bordeaux style wines, the favourites of which are Weeping Sands and the Obsidian vintage.
An Ageing Rocker of a Wine
‘Rather risky and aged claret, which is definitely not to be trifled with,’ is the warning to imbibers of the Summer Aphrodisiac, produced by Miro. The knowledgeable bar manager explained that Miro was so named as it was Maori for ‘berry’ but also to reflect the Spanish influence that gave a unique touch to the operation that faces down onto Onetangi Bay. A Gaudi-esque seating is in the process of being developed and the eating area had artwork that would sit easily in a Spanish hacienda.
The menu is tapas-based but the wines are an eclectic mix of European-inspired and very solidly reflecting the attitude of the islanders to their wines.
A rose wine, the only one on the island where the grapes are grown specially, has been obviously developed based on the light, easy-drinking rose wines of Provence in France. Meanwhile the Summer Aphrodisiac hits the senses like an All Black in full flight.
An interesting side-product is the Madam Rouge aperitif. Soon to appear on the shelves of supermarkets and wine shops in the UK, this drink is a Merlot-based liqueur that can be drunk neat or mixed with soda water to produce a refreshing summer long drink.
Stony Ridge is a well-established, popular vineyard, not least because of its award-winning cuisine. The views as you sit on the terrace of the restaurant are stunning – rolling green hills, aged trees and not a road or building to spoil the view.
The vineyards of Waiheke are mostly lesser relatives of large operations in the renowned New Zealand wine growing areas, but they are not any less professional or of any lesser quality. Indeed the passion for the vines, the production process and the customer service creates a lasting impression on the visitor.
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Sarah Juggins - A magazine editor, blogger and freelance journalist, Sarah Juggins writes with authority and accuracy on a range of subjects.
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